Aerin Zavory runs Zavory's Catering in East Haven, Connecticut. No brick-and-mortar restaurant. The catering chef is one of the more underestimated archetypes in American cooking — the people who, on any given Saturday, are producing four hundred plates of food in someone else's borrowed kitchen with someone else's terrible oven, on a timeline somebody else set.
Zavory brought lamb chops. The lamb chop is one of those dishes that is hard to ruin and impossible to make great. The fat cap renders, the bone conducts heat, the meat hits medium-rare in about six minutes if you're paying attention. Greatness requires the marinade, the temper, the rest, and the sauce that knows when to step back.
She paid attention. Bobby, who built his career grilling, did not have the lamb.
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