Jeremy Fogg is the Culinary Director and Executive Chef at French Truck Coffee in New Orleans — thirteen locations — and he was the pastry chef at Emeril's before that. He understands frozen desserts the way an electrician understands wire gauge.
His weapon in 2018 was an ice cream sandwich. Which is — and this is true of every dessert in this book — a dish that exposes the pastry chef inside a savory chef who is pretending. The cookies have to be soft at freezer temperature, which means more brown sugar than white and a higher fat ratio so the crumb stays pliable when cold. The ice cream has to be a flavor that sets up against the cookie rather than sliding around. The sandwich has to be assembled and re-frozen so the structure holds at room-temperature service.
Bobby's cookies, frozen, were hard. The judges had to gnaw.
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