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Matt Pace

Fried Oyster Po'boy
S20E3 Southern · 2019
Where to find them
  • Elysianne · Amsterdam, Netherlands
@booqoochef

Matt Pace cooked out of Cafe Booqoo in Brooklyn before landing at Elysianne in Amsterdam, which is not the usual trajectory for a fried oyster po'boy specialist, but good cooking does not have a fixed address. His po'boy won because he understood that it is not a sandwich so much as a compression problem: everything has to hold together in the forty-five seconds between assembly and the first bite.

His oysters went through a double dredge — seasoned cornmeal first pass, egg wash, seasoned flour second pass — which builds layers of crust that maintain crunch even under the moisture of remoulade. He dressed the bread last, spreading the remoulade base on both cut sides and then adding the oysters, so the sauce and protein hit the judges simultaneously rather than sequentially. The bread was a French pistolette, lightly toasted inside only, so the crust stayed rigid.

Brooklyn to Amsterdam is a long way to travel, but Pace's oyster po'boy suggests he carried the right knowledge with him.

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Fried Oyster Po'boy

25 min Prep
35 min Cook
4 Serves
  • 2 lbs fresh oysters, shucked and drained (about 32 oysters)
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup cornstarch
  • 2 tsp cayenne pepper
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp garlic powder
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 4 cups neutral oil for frying
  • 4 po'boy rolls (8-10 inches), split lengthwise
  • 2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
  • 2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick
  • 1 cup remoulade sauce
  1. Pat oysters dry with paper towels and set aside. Whisk together flour, cornstarch, cayenne, smoked paprika, garlic powder, salt, and black pepper in a shallow bowl. Pour buttermilk into another shallow bowl.
  2. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or deep skillet to 350°F, using a thermometer. Work in batches to maintain temperature.
  3. Dredge 8-10 oysters in buttermilk, then coat thoroughly in the seasoned flour mixture, gently pressing coating to adhere. Shake off excess and carefully place into hot oil.
  4. Fry oysters for 2 to 2.5 minutes until deep golden brown and crispy, turning halfway through. Transfer to a wire rack set over paper towels. Repeat with remaining oysters, allowing oil to return to 350°F between batches.
  5. Lightly toast po'boy rolls cut-side down in a skillet over medium-high heat for 1-2 minutes until golden and warm.
  6. Spread 1/4 cup remoulade on the bottom half of each roll. Layer with shredded lettuce, then 8 fried oysters per sandwich, slightly overlapping. Top with tomato slices.
  7. Close sandwich with top half of roll and cut diagonally. Serve immediately with extra remoulade on the side and hot sauce of choice.
Inspired by Matt Pace’s winning fried oyster po'boy. This is a plausible recreation, not the chef’s original recipe.
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