Reza Setayesh

Jianbing is a Chinese street breakfast. It is a thin crepe of mung bean and wheat flour, cracked with an egg, brushed with hoisin and chile, scattered with scallion and crisp wonton, then folded into a portable rectangle. In Beijing it costs less than a dollar.

Reza Setayesh is Iranian-born, runs BimBeriBon in Asheville (an all-day café with a globally inspired, gluten-free and refined-sugar-free menu), and is exactly the kind of chef who would obsess over the batter consistency. The jianbing dies or lives on the crepe. Too thick, it's a pancake. Too thin, it tears at the fold.

Setayesh's held. Bobby's American take on a Chinese street food, on Reza's home turf, did not.