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Tom Berry

Merda De Can
S29E7 American · 2022

Chief culinary officer for COJE group in Boston. His winning French spinach dumplings joined the menu at Coquette in the Seaport.

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@tbprops

Merda de can — "dog turd" in Catalan — is a French-Italian peasant dumpling of spinach and ricotta that is named after exactly what it looks like. The naming convention is the most honest in European cooking. The dish itself is a high-wire act: two cups of cooked spinach, drained until your forearms hurt, mixed with ricotta and egg and just enough flour to hold without becoming pasta, then poached gently into oblong dumplings that should taste of garden and dairy and nothing else.

Tom Berry is the chief culinary officer of COJE Management Group in Boston — Coquette, Yvonne's, several others. His winning spinach dumplings from this episode are now on the menu at Coquette in the Seaport. That is the rare Beat Bobby Flay aftermarket: a competition dish that became a restaurant dish.

Bobby brought a dumpling. Berry brought a dumpling that ended up on a menu.

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Merda De Can

25 min Prep
40 min Cook
4 Serves
  • 1.5 lbs beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 4 oz pancetta, diced
  • 2 cups pearl onions, peeled
  • 8 oz cremini mushrooms, halved
  • 3 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 cup beef stock
  • 0.5 cup dry red wine
  • 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 tbsp whole grain mustard
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 0.5 tsp black pepper
  1. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat (350°F). Season beef cubes with salt and pepper. Working in batches, sear beef for 3-4 minutes per side until deeply browned. Set aside on a plate.
  2. In the same pot, render pancetta over medium heat for 4 minutes until fat releases and edges crisp. Add minced garlic and cook 1 minute until fragrant.
  3. Add tomato paste and both mustards to the pot, stirring constantly for 2 minutes to caramelize and deepen flavor. This builds the sauce foundation.
  4. Deglaze with red wine, scraping up browned bits for 2 minutes. Pour in beef stock and return seared beef to pot. Add fresh thyme. Bring to simmer.
  5. Cover and braise in a 325°F oven for 25 minutes. Remove from oven, add pearl onions and mushrooms, stir well.
  6. Return covered pot to oven for an additional 12-15 minutes until beef is fork-tender and onions are caramelized. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon.
  7. Remove from oven, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Drizzle with remaining 1 tbsp olive oil for shine and richness before serving.
Inspired by Tom Berry’s winning merda de can. This is a plausible recreation, not the chef’s original recipe.
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