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Yehuda Sichel

Matzo Ball Soup
S26E13 Jewish · 2021
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@yehuda_sichel

There are two matzo ball soups that have beaten Bobby Flay on this show, which means either the dish is his kryptonite or Jewish grandmothers have been right about soup all along. Yehuda Sichel, who runs Huda in Philadelphia, is the second entry in this record, and he approaches the bowl with the studied seriousness of someone who has thought about what this dish actually requires.

Sichel's broth is a six-hour chicken stock with a high roasted-vegetable ratio — onion, carrot, and parsnip, all roasted at 400°F before they hit the water — which creates a Maillard depth in a clear broth that would otherwise read as thin. His matzo balls run schmaltz and separate eggs with the whites whipped to medium peaks, and the formed balls go into the pot in simmering broth, never boiling. A boiling pot agitates the exterior of the ball before the center sets and produces a tough shell around a mushy interior.

Huda in Philadelphia is the destination for this dish if you want to understand what it's supposed to be. Bobby's version of 'supposed to be' was educated by different influences.

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Matzo Ball Soup

25 min Prep
50 min Cook
4 Serves
  • 2 lb chicken bones and thighs, skin removed
  • 1 medium yellow onion, halved
  • 3 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 2 celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1 tbsp fresh dill, plus more for garnish
  • 1 tsp kosher salt, divided
  • ½ tsp black pepper
  • 4 large eggs
  • ½ cup matzo meal
  • 3 tbsp schmaltz (rendered chicken fat), melted
  • 2 tbsp seltzer water, chilled
  • ¼ tsp white pepper
  • 6 cups water
  1. Bring 6 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Add chicken bones, thighs, halved onion, carrots, celery, dill, and ½ tsp kosher salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered for 35 minutes, skimming foam from surface after 5 minutes. Strain through fine mesh, discarding solids. You should have approximately 5 cups clear broth.
  2. While broth simmers, prepare matzo balls: whisk together eggs, melted schmaltz, seltzer water, matzo meal, remaining ½ tsp kosher salt, and white pepper in a bowl until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes—the mixture will thicken slightly.
  3. Return strained broth to pot and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Using wet hands or two spoons, form matzo mixture into 8 balls (approximately 1.5 inches diameter each). Drop gently into boiling broth.
  4. Reduce heat to medium, cover partially, and simmer for 12-14 minutes. Matzo balls will sink initially, then rise to the surface when done. They should be tender but hold their shape.
  5. Ladle matzo balls and broth into bowls. Garnish with fresh dill and a pinch of black pepper. Serve immediately while steaming hot.
Inspired by Yehuda Sichel’s winning matzo ball soup. This is a plausible recreation, not the chef’s original recipe.
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