Moussaka is Greek cuisine's answer to lasagna, except the noodles are eggplant, the ricotta is béchamel, and the bolognese has cinnamon in it. It is the dish that exposes whether a cook has spent time in a Greek grandmother's kitchen or in a culinary school doing a unit on "Mediterranean."
Nikolaos Kapernaros has done the first. He led the culinary team at Avli on the Park in Chicago and now runs private dining around the city. His béchamel had nutmeg and a real roux. Bobby's lamb, per the room, was "undersalted." Lamb without enough salt tastes like wool. The judges said it more politely than that. Barely.