Gnocchi is the pasta dish that hates you. Too much flour and the dumpling turns into an eraser; too little and it dissolves in the boiling water. The window is roughly a tablespoon of room.
Kristine Kittrell is the managing partner at Weather Up Austin and the founder of El Chile Cafe y Cantina and El Chilito — a chef who has been making her own pasta in Austin since before Austin had a pasta scene. Her gnocchi were pillowy in the way a Roman nonna would recognize. Bobby's, per the room, had density.
Density is the polite word.