This is the chapter for the cuisines that appear once or twice in the ledger — the African, Burmese, Cuban, Filipino, German, Spanish, and Caribbean wins that prove the depth of the field is wider than any chapter heading can hold.
Each of these wins is one chef carrying a national cuisine alone into the kitchen and walking out with the dish intact.
American cooking is so much deeper than the famous people who are paid to be its face. The chefs in this chapter are nine reminders, in seven cuisines, that the depth is the point.